Hard to believe it’s been a year since the last one… and the 17th one at that! Yep, Jazzmandu 2019 is happening from October 17-23. At a past event I overheard someone saying they’d timed their return visit to coincide with Jazzmandu; it’s that popular with the city’s music lovers. And gives me a chance to add to my tote bag collection… 🙂
You can find this year’s schedule of events here.
in booze, daily life, Dashain, Food | No Comments »
Food is unquestionably a big part of the Dashain holiday, and each year there are tasty tidbits to enjoy, some particular to the family or establishment serving them. On Monday, stopping off at my landlady’s to pay the rent, I enjoyed this plateful of Newari goodies, prepared by her teenage daughter this year for the family for the first time. In addition to the ubiquitous goat, circling the beaten rice was also chicken, mulako achaar (daikon radish pickle) undetermined greens, potato, peanuts and sliced fried goat’s lung. Yum!
The next day, Tuesday, was the auspicious day of Dashain Tika (October 8), and I headed to Khokana (famed for its mustard oil) to catch the last day of the Newari town’s unique Shikali Jatra, something I only learned about last year when one of our freelance writers pitched me a story about it. Unfortunately, this isn’t the year I get to experience it for myself, as it was already over the day I went–it’s either a three day and not a five day festival, or it begins earlier than I’d been told; never mind, I’ll make sure to come earlier next year.
It’s a quaint little town, though, with goats adding to temple still lifes (spot at least two);
empty, scrubbed chaang pots drying in the sun (sorry I missed out on the contents);
and old buildings of many kinds.
Heading back towards Kathmandu, I stopped at a local restaurant on a hill, where, after learning I only wanted a drink and not a meal, I was ushered to a seat with a view, where, in addition to homemade raxsi, Dashain snacks kept coming. When I paid my bill and headed out, full and happy, it was hard to see how I could have had a better Dashain; I’d have never come this far out without the festival, and despite being too late for it I was so glad I had.
in daily life, Kathmandu, spring | No Comments »
Today is a glorious spring day – the first so far, really. The weather started warming up early this year; my azaleas started blooming in February, as you can see. Then we had an unexpected cold snap that saw some parts of the Kathmandu Valley get snow for the first time in 12 years. It was wild. And cold!
But then, today: sunny and windy, one of those days where scooter driving is a joy, and the air feels light and bright. Driving alongside the royal palace, the wind rustled the bamboo, blowing its dry leaves over us commuters and making me feel pretty darn cheerful.
Seems like spring is here.
Delighted to write about my new favorite restaurant for ECS Nepal. This place has the most amazing (and affordable) Tibetan and Bhutanese food – read all about it here. Writing about food just makes me happy 🙂
in Food, mo: mo, Thamel | No Comments »
So it’s been a long time without a mo:mo post, but not because I haven’t been eating them. This is for all the vegetable lovers out there; it’s not a particularly attractive plate of mo:mos, which has been true pretty much every time I’ve eaten here. Don’t let that fool you, though, because they are delicious – I’d say they’re my favorite non-meat mo:mo in the city: the spinach-cheese mo:mos from Phat Khat, JP Road, Thamel. Well worth a visit.
This post has been in my head for ages. A few years ago, some amazing pieces of street art started popping up all over the city. I never knew when I’d turn a corner and see a formerly bare wall now covered with an image that would make me think, wonder, or just feel grateful for the beauty. I have been taking pictures of them for years, spurred on when several pieces vanished after the walls or buildings they adorned got torn down. Today I took the photo below, on a side alley off Paknajol, behind Thamel, of a piece I was seeing for the first time.
The others were taken earlier this year; I’ll track down the older photos for a future post, but for now, enjoy. To the best of my knowledge all of these are still up and can be viewed at the location noted.
It’s that time of year… I don’t think there’s anything more beautiful than the bright, fresh green of the rice paddies during these months. Coming upon a vale of them like this is a relaxing treat. I took these in the Sano Khokana area, outside the ringroad on the southern, Lalitupur side, not far from Nakkhu.